The art of scent revisited

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I made a post about the various cover designs for Patrick Süskind’s novel, Perfume, shortly after the film had been released in 2007 but haven’t paid much attention to the book since. These recent designs are by Klaus Haapaniemi, a Finnish illustrator based in London, and do a good job of presenting the story’s themes without resort to the recumbent (or dead) females common to earlier editions. The version below wasn’t given final approval but gets included here for its peacocks. Via Chateau Thombeau.

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The book covers archive
The illustrators archive

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Perfume: the art of scent

Combinaisons Ornementales

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After writing about Charles J Strong’s Book of Designs a couple of days ago, it seems pertinent to point the way to a far more essential Art Nouveau design book which can also be found at the Internet Archive. Combinaisons Ornementales was a collaboration between Maurice Verneuil, George Auriol and Alphonse Mucha published in 1901, and comprises 60 plates of beautifully elegant designs (“multipliable to infinity with the aid of a mirror”) which range from Mucha’s abstractions to Verneuil’s flower motifs. The examples shown here are all by Mucha; I borrowed one of the flourishes and the peacock feather for the Dodgem Logic cover design earlier this year.

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For a quick look at all the plates, the NYPL Digital Gallery has scans. Mucha produced another design book the following year, Documents Decoratifs, although I’ve yet to see an edition of that online.

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Previously on { feuilleton }
Charles J Strong’s Book of Designs
Mucha’s Zodiac
Dodgem Logic #4
Peacocks

Palladini’s Zodiac

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David Palladini’s poster for Werner Herzog’s Nosferatu the Vampyre has been mentioned here twice in the past week so it seemed only fair to see whether any of his other work matched that splendid piece. The artist has worked for years as a book illustrator but seems to receive most attention these days for his Aquarian Tarot deck, first produced in 1970 and still being sold today. Many of the card designs show something like the kind of stained-glass window approach he used for his film poster but with less decoration. Far closer to the Herzog piece is a series of posters he made in 1969 depicting his own interpretation of the signs of the zodiac. Every mention I’ve seen of these notes their scarcity which is a shame when many of them are such striking designs. Of particular interest to this Aubrey Beardsley obsessive is seeing that the scale shapes which Palladini put into the “N” of his Nosferatu lettering may, as I guessed, go back to the similar shapes which Aubrey borrowed from Whistler’s Peacock Room; see the peacock-like bird in Aquarius below.

This page has some examples of the Major Arcana designs from Palladini’s Tarot. More of his zodiac posters follow, all of which are courtesy Meibohm Fine Arts.

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The illustrators archive

Previously on { feuilleton }
Druillet’s vampires
The Art Nouveau dance goes on forever
The Sapphire Museum of Magic and Occultism
The art of Pamela Colman Smith, 1878–1951
Layered Orders: Crowley’s Thoth Deck and the Tarot
Whistler’s Peacock Room
The Major Arcana

The Art Nouveau dance goes on forever

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Catalogue for Art Nouveau Revival 1900 . 1933 . 1966 . 1974. Peacock feather not included.

Regular readers may recall my mention of the Musée d’Orsay exhibition Art Nouveau Revival which was launched late last year. I didn’t get to see the exhibition, unfortunately, but this week I finally ordered a copy of the catalogue, an expensive cloth-bound volume with essays (in French) by Philippe Thiébaut, Stephen Calloway, Irene de Guttry, Thierry Taittinger and Philippe Thieryre. Despite the ruinous postal charges incurred by the book’s weight this was worth every euro, it being the kind of polymorphous production which in solipsistic moments one can choose to believe was created solely for your own benefit.

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Aubrey again, album covers from 1974.

Much of the subject matter has been explored here in various small ways, with the curators following the influence of Art Nouveau through Surrealism (mainly Dalí) to the psychedelic art of the 1960s and on into the Pop Nouveau (for want of a better term) which flourished in the first half of the 1970s. Among the familiar Aubrey Beardsley graphics and psychedelic posters there are also some pleasantly surprising inclusions, including illustrations by Philippe Jullian (yes, I’m still intending on writing about him at some point), yet more Beardsley album covers, film posters, and even some of the sillier films of the late-60s such as Casino Royale. Being a French exhibition there’s a section devoted to comic strips which includes work by Moebius, Philippe Druillet and Guido Crepax.

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Sex and LSD, a spread from Playboy, 1967.

It’s common to see parallels drawn between the 1890s and the 1960s but the strange blooms of vulgarised fin de siècle style which burgeoned in the wake of psychedelia are seldom given much attention. One of the great things about this catalogue is the amount of ephemera the curators chose to include such as magazine ads and trend-chasing album sleeves. It was precisely this blend of 1890s + 1960s + 1970s I sought to capture in my recent cover for Dodgem Logic. As I said, it’s an expensive book but for anyone drawn to this aesthetic hothouse it’s also an essential purchase. Art Nouveau Revival can be ordered direct from the museum shop. Further samples follow.

Continue reading “The Art Nouveau dance goes on forever”

Book-plates of To-day

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A design by Harold Nelson.

That title probably requires a (sic) for those unaware that “today” was commonly hyphenated until about 1920. Wilbur Macey Stone’s Book-plates of To-day (1902) is a small overview of the art of the bookplate at the Internet Archive. Among the artists flourishing the Art Nouveau foliage are a couple of familiar illustrators such as Robert Anning Bell (below), and there’s also a plate by the Belgian Symbolist Fernand Khnopff, the first such work I’ve seen by that artist.

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Elsewhere on { feuilleton }
The illustrators archive

Previously on { feuilleton }
Louis Rhead bookplates
Pratt Libraries Ex Libris Collection
Robert Anning Bell’s Tempest
The Evil Orchid Bookplate Contest
David Becket’s bookplates